Universal Genève Polerouter, 1960s (Ref. 20217/5)

Some watches are born from necessity, others from ambition. The Universal Genève Polerouter emerged from both. In 1954, when commercial aviation was pushing into uncharted territory—literally over the North Pole—Scandinavian Airlines needed timepieces that could withstand the extreme magnetic fields encountered at polar altitudes. They turned to Universal Genève, which handed the design brief to a promising 24-year-old named Gerald Genta.

Yes, that Gerald Genta. Before the Royal Oak, before the Nautilus, there was the Polerouter—arguably his first masterpiece and certainly one of his most understated.

This particular example, reference 20217/5, represents the civilian evolution of Genta's original polar design. By the 1960s, the Polerouter had shed its exclusive airline origins and found its way onto the wrists of those who appreciated thoughtful design over flashy statements. Reference 20217 was the steel variant—more accessible than its gold-capped sibling, yet no less sophisticated.

At 35.5mm, this watch inhabits that sweet spot of vintage proportions: substantial enough to feel purposeful, refined enough for any occasion. The dial showcases Genta's early mastery of restraint—a silvered surface punctuated by applied indices and framed by the Polerouter's signature engine-turned chapter ring. Those distinctive twisted lugs? Pure Genta, adding visual interest without sacrificing elegance.

The automatic movement inside continues Universal Genève's tradition of in-house calibres, built during an era when Swiss watchmaking prioritised durability over marketing. This was a tool watch that happened to be beautiful, rather than the other way around.

Looking at this Polerouter today, it's remarkable how fresh Genta's 70-year-old design feels. While its contemporaries often appear dated, the Polerouter's clean lines and balanced proportions remain timeless, transcending their era. It's a watch that works as well with jeans as it does with a suit—precisely what you'd expect from a design that had to perform over the North Pole and look good doing it.

For those seeking vintage character without vintage prices, or Gerald Genta design without the auction house fanfare, the Polerouter offers something increasingly rare: a genuine piece of horological history that you can actually afford to wear.