Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust, Silver Dial, 1972 (Ref. 1601, Cal. 1570)

In 1945, Hans Wilsdorf celebrated Rolex's 40th anniversary the only way he knew how — with a new watch. The Datejust became the world's first self-winding chronometer wristwatch to display the date through a window on the dial, and it arrived wearing a new bracelet named after the occasion: the Jubilee. Winston Churchill received one. Dwight Eisenhower received one. Eight decades later, the Datejust has never left the Rolex catalogue, and this 1972 reference 1601 represents the model at its most refined — the archetypal configuration that defined what a dress watch could be.

The reference 1601 ran from 1960 to 1981, establishing the design language that still defines the Datejust today. The 36mm Oyster case in stainless steel, the white gold fluted bezel catching light at every angle, the Cyclops lens magnifying the date at 3 o'clock, the silver sunburst dial with applied baton indices — these elements didn't just become iconic, they became the template against which all dress watches would be measured. The "T SWISS T" marking at 6 o'clock indicates tritium luminous material, the safer replacement for radium that Rolex adopted in 1963.

Inside beats the calibre 1570, a 26-jewel automatic movement that represents Rolex's in-house engineering at its peak. Featuring the brand's proprietary Microstella regulating system for fine accuracy adjustment, the 1570 runs at 19,800 vibrations per hour and incorporates hacking seconds — a feature Rolex added in 1972, allowing the second hand to stop when the crown is pulled out for precise time-setting. The caseback stamp "I.72" confirms this watch was manufactured in the first quarter of 1972, placing it among the earliest hacking-equipped examples.

The Jubilee bracelet remains one of the most comfortable and recognisable designs in watchmaking. Its five-piece link construction drapes elegantly over the wrist, formal enough for black tie yet understated enough for daily wear. The folded links and hollow end-links are characteristic of the era — details that distinguish vintage from modern and that many collectors actively prefer for their lighter, more supple feel.

What makes the reference 1601 compelling for collectors is its position as the definitive vintage Datejust. Later references added quickset date functions and sapphire crystals, but they also flattened the stepped "pie-pan" dial that gives earlier examples their distinctive depth. The acrylic crystal, often dismissed as inferior to sapphire, actually provides a warmer optical quality that vintage enthusiasts prize — and it's easily polished to remove scratches, unlike its modern replacement.

This 1972 example arrives in the configuration most collectors seek: stainless steel case, white-gold fluted bezel, silver dial, and original Jubilee bracelet. It's the watch that graced the wrists of world leaders and shaped half a century of design. The Datejust that started everything — still running, still relevant, still the benchmark.