Longines Conquest, 1957 (Ref. 9002)

In 1954, Longines made a bold declaration of intent with the launch of the Conquest—the first watch collection in horological history to have its name protected by patent. This wasn't merely marketing; it was a statement that Swiss watchmaking had entered a new era of branded excellence. By 1957, when this particular example was crafted, the Conquest had established itself as Longines' flagship model, representing what the brand called "a stepping-stone to progress."

The reference 9002 showcases the sophisticated gold-capped construction that elevated mid-1950s watchmaking. Unlike simple gold plating, the gold-capped process involved mechanically bonding thick layers of gold to the stainless steel case through heat and pressure. The result was a timepiece that combined the luxury of precious metals with the durability of steel—perfect for the optimistic post-war era, when quality and value were valued equally.

At the heart of this Conquest beats the celebrated Calibre 19AS, one of Longines' most revered automatic movements. Introduced in 1952, this 19-jewel marvel represented the pinnacle of Swiss mechanical engineering. With its distinctive large rotor, beautiful perlage finishing, and robust 18,000 beats per hour, the 19AS was famously difficult to service but utterly reliable in daily use. Each jewel was mounted in its own threaded gold sleeve—a level of sophistication that exceeded even Rolex's practices of the period.

The dial exemplifies 1950s design philosophy: clean, purposeful, and elegantly proportioned. Applied twin-faceted markers create depth and visual interest, whilst the warm champagne colour that has developed over nearly seven decades adds character that no modern watch can replicate. The dauphine hands sweep across the surface with mechanical precision, their gold tones harmonising perfectly with the aged dial.

What truly distinguishes the Conquest is its iconic caseback medallion—a deeply engraved fish motif highlighted with translucent green enamel. This medallion wasn't merely decorative; it symbolised the watch's water-resistant construction and Longines' commitment to durability. The twelve-sided screw-down caseback required a specific Longines tool, emphasising the brand's attention to every detail.

The timing of this 1957 example is particularly significant. The Conquest launched the same year as Rolex's Explorer, yet commanded higher prices due to Longines' superior reputation at the time. These were watches for discerning customers who understood quality—polar explorers, professionals, and enthusiasts who demanded both reliability and refinement.

At 35mm, this Conquest embodies the perfect vintage proportions that modern collectors increasingly appreciate. The substantial beefy lugs and screw-down construction create presence without ostentation, whilst the gold-capped finish provides warmth and luxury. It's a watch that works equally well with business attire or weekend casual wear.

The Conquest's heritage runs deeper than most realise. Longines had been supplying timing instruments to Arctic expeditions since 1899, and the brand's expertise in extreme conditions informed every aspect of the Conquest's design. This wasn't just a dress watch masquerading as a sports watch—it was a serious tool watch that happened to be beautiful.

For collectors seeking an entry point into vintage Longines, the Conquest offers everything that makes the brand special: exceptional movement quality, thoughtful design, rich heritage, and remarkable value compared to its more famous Swiss contemporaries. It represents a golden age when Longines ranked among the very finest Swiss manufacturers.

This 1957 example captures the optimism and technical excellence of its era whilst offering the daily wearability that makes vintage watches worthwhile. It's a piece of horological history that happens to tell excellent time—exactly what the best vintage watches should be.